Jordan

#17 Jordan – November 2023 – Age: 29

After the success of the trip with my brother to Croatia, we set our sights on Jordan. Charlie had some research at the archaeological institute in Amman, at Quseri Amra towards the boarder with Syria, and some further research to conduct at Jerash in the North. I was along for the ride. 

This was going to be an action-packed holiday; I haven’t mentioned yet, but the business I previously owned and sold September 2024, was in full swing, and nearing a zenith in business. Usually, I could run it from my phone, but this was a first experience of running it whilst going on extensive drives through deserts where there’s no signal; quite a stupid decision you might think. I thought so too, but c’est la vie; we’re allowed to be foolish every now and then. 

First day was cramming in exploring Amman – we roamed around the hustle and bustle of the merchant quarter, through souks, soaking up the atmosphere and the heat – nice for November (~20-25C) - before directing to our primary targets; the museums for classical antiquities; I was going to be the cameraman largely in these instances.

In the evening, after a successful day of exploring, we went to a local bar, one of the few, which served alcohol and helped ourself to a nice local dinner and a couple of beers before getting an early night.

The main element of the research was a spot called Quesir Amra. This was a site dated back to around 9th century AD. Charlie’s research is on the evolution of stringed instruments over several hundred years in a hotspot for development in the Middle-East and North Africa during this period. It is intertwined with the writings of an Arabic writer Al Kindi, heralded as one of the great Arabic thinkers and innovators in this area during this time. 

We drove through the desert to Quesir Amra on days 2 and 3 to conduct the research. The structure of the castle is rather unassuming, a rather beautiful but understated building which is clear on the skyline due to the vast open expanse of desert beyond. While Charlie set up all his equipment, I read my book, listened to music and altogether actually had some rather extensive periods of self-introspection given where we were and what we were doing in the vast expanse of nothing. Luckily for both of us, it was November, so the temperature was not searing, a comfortable 25C.

On the second day here, we were known by the site security guards and they let us roam around with unfettered access. I made friends with a visiting family from Jordan and we drank Bedouin tea and they told me about Jordan and its history; I felt terrible for not knowing a word of Arabic; their English was faultless. 

In what some would consider a touch and go moment, on our way back to Amman, we passed one of the site guards walking home, not 1 mile up the road from the castle – he hitched a lift and we took a little detour to drop him off, before heading back for beers. An interesting character who again had further insights on what to do/where to go. 

Next day, we visited Jerash in the North. This is a must-see in my opinion. I think many people just think of Petra. This is like a mini-Petra but lies on a very large site, right in the middle of the city of Jerash. We spent an entire day here exploring the sites including a stunning amphitheatre before returning home for some nice local food. No beers tonight. We were driving all day through the desert the next day to get to Petra in our 4*4. 

We’ve all seen Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. If you haven’t, watch it, it’s great. It’s denouement is filmed at the Treasury in Petra. I actually think the Monastery is more beautiful than the Treasury but the Treasury is the iconic image we all know. 

I won’t go into Petra too much; it’s a must see. A massive expanse dating thousands of years ago when Babylon and Mesopotamia were the most advanced civilisations around, built into the mountainous landscape. The museum is very interesting to do first, so that you have the background. Don’t get fleeced by a guide, plough your own furrow.  If you get a wiggle on, and you’re at the site for opening around 7am, you can probably do it quite comfortably in 2 days and really soak everything up, which is exactly what we did. Be sure to respect the culture and wear appropriate clothing. 

There are a number of secret shortcuts and steep / dangerous climbs you can take to cut some corners and actually do the sites in perhaps a day but I don’t really think that is enough to really soak in the beauty of some of these remarkably well preserved structures. Good footwear is a must. Be careful on the narrow paths for donkeys carrying larger or lazier tourists through the carious treks; they’re chaotic and carefree. 

Taking the route down through Wadi Rum is also stunning. On our third day here, having explored all the sites in Petra, we took the balloon up to give us the full view of the Wadi and Petra. It’s a great experience and well worth a go. 

The food in the town is also fantastic. We went to a couple of different spots on our stay and had local cuisine. Tourist prices are still very good value for money. I should mention, the view of from our Air Bnb, aptly called ‘The Eyes of Petra’ was stunning. First thing in the morning, you could see the Petra balloon on its first voyage of the day. On one evening, we were treated to a violent thunder and lightening storm (but no rain), on the distant horizon which was stunning to view from our terrace. 

I was sad to leave and take the 4-5 hour drive in the 4*4 back to Amman before retuning home. One of my greatest adventures.